01 02 03 Miss Smartie's Sewing: The Secretary Blouse: measurement system 04 05 15 16 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 31 32 33

The Secretary Blouse: measurement system

34
I do not like standard clothing sizes. The main reason for this is that no-one has a standard body. Society makes us uncomfortably aware of this problem. One thing I like about making your own clothes is this: I always feel that when a piece of clothing I've made doesn't fit, it's the fault of the clothing, not of the body it was made for. If a ready to wear item doesn't fit, somehow it tells us that it's the fault of our body since it's not normal/thin/long/curvy/... enough.

I also know that women tend to get attached to their 'size' and tend to believe that their size will fit them, even when switching designers or from ready made to homemade clothing.  This is not the case. All brands use a slightly different measurements system, not to mention the mess when you take into account the different systems for the different countries.

When making your own clothes it's really important to get the fit right. To customise your pattern to fit your unique body. That's why I decided not to use any regular clothing sizes. You will have to measure yourself to know witch size you are. And Yes, I have deliberately not skipped all uneven numbers, so your size will appear to be smaller than usual. Because I know how hard a lot of you will find it if you have to use a bigger size. Please believe me that the result will look better on you if you use the size your body actually has an not the size you want your body to have.

In the following table you will find the final measurements of this pattern. All measurements are given in centimetres. If your fabric is stretchy enough (10cm of it should stretch as far as 14cm) and your measurements of the bust and waist are not more than 1 size apart (you are for example either size 5 for bust and waist or you are a size 6/4 in one and a 5 in the other) you can execute this pattern as is. If your bust is more than 1 size larger than your waist (congrats by the way) I recommend that you still only scale down one size at the waist to prevent issues when putting the clothing on. You could also add a zipper in the side.


1 2 3 4 5 678910
Bust 78,4  82,4 86,5 90,5 94,7 98,8 102,9 107 111,1 115,2
Waist 56,8 60,8 64,8 68,8 72,8 76,8 80,8 84,8 88,8 92,8

If you've found your measurements download one of the following files. You will also need about 1,5m of stretch fabric for all sizes and a piece of rather stiff interfacing.

Sizes 1-5
Sizes 4-7
Sizes 6-10

When your measurements are between sizes you can follow a tutorial on how to adjust the pattern to your own measurements here (under construction). 

Labels: , , , , ,

35 36 37 38 body { background:#aba; margin:0; padding:20px 10px; text-align:center; font:x-small/1.5em "Trebuchet MS",Verdana,Arial,Sans-serif; color:#333; font-size/* */:/**/small; font-size: /**/small; } /* Page Structure ----------------------------------------------- */ /* The images which help create rounded corners depend on the following widths and measurements. If you want to change these measurements, the images will also need to change. */ @media all { #content { width:740px; margin:0 auto; text-align:left; } #main { width:485px; float:left; background:#fff url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_main_bot.gif") no-repeat left bottom; margin:15px 0 0; padding:0 0 10px; color:#000; font-size:97%; line-height:1.5em; } #main2 { float:left; width:100%; background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_main_top.gif") no-repeat left top; padding:10px 0 0; } #main3 { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/rails_main.gif") repeat-y; padding:0; } #sidebar { width:240px; float:right; margin:15px 0 0; font-size:97%; line-height:1.5em; } } @media handheld { #content { width:90%; } #main { width:100%; float:none; background:#fff; } #main2 { float:none; background:none; } #main3 { background:none; padding:0; } #sidebar { width:100%; float:none; } } /* Links ----------------------------------------------- */ a:link { color:#258; } a:visited { color:#666; } a:hover { color:#c63; } a img { border-width:0; } /* Blog Header ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { #header { background:#456 url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_cap_top.gif") no-repeat left top; margin:0 0 0; padding:8px 0 0; color:#fff; } #header div { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_cap_bot.gif") no-repeat left bottom; padding:0 15px 8px; } } @media handheld { #header { background:#456; } #header div { background:none; } } #blog-title { margin:0; padding:10px 30px 5px; font-size:200%; line-height:1.2em; } #blog-title a { text-decoration:none; color:#fff; } #description { margin:0; padding:5px 30px 10px; font-size:94%; line-height:1.5em; } /* Posts ----------------------------------------------- */ .date-header { margin:0 28px 0 43px; font-size:85%; line-height:2em; text-transform:uppercase; letter-spacing:.2em; color:#357; } .post { margin:.3em 0 25px; padding:0 13px; border:1px dotted #bbb; border-width:1px 0; } .post-title { margin:0; font-size:135%; line-height:1.5em; background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_arrow.gif") no-repeat 10px .5em; display:block; border:1px dotted #bbb; border-width:0 1px 1px; padding:2px 14px 2px 29px; color:#333; } a.title-link, .post-title strong { text-decoration:none; display:block; } a.title-link:hover { background-color:#ded; color:#000; } .post-body { border:1px dotted #bbb; border-width:0 1px 1px; border-bottom-color:#fff; padding:10px 14px 1px 29px; } html>body .post-body { border-bottom-width:0; } .post p { margin:0 0 .75em; } p.post-footer { background:#ded; margin:0; padding:2px 14px 2px 29px; border:1px dotted #bbb; border-width:1px; border-bottom:1px solid #eee; font-size:100%; line-height:1.5em; color:#666; text-align:right; } html>body p.post-footer { border-bottom-color:transparent; } p.post-footer em { display:block; float:left; text-align:left; font-style:normal; } a.comment-link { /* IE5.0/Win doesn't apply padding to inline elements, so we hide these two declarations from it */ background/* */:/**/url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_comment.gif") no-repeat 0 45%; padding-left:14px; } html>body a.comment-link { /* Respecified, for IE5/Mac's benefit */ background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_comment.gif") no-repeat 0 45%; padding-left:14px; } .post img { margin:0 0 5px 0; padding:4px; border:1px solid #ccc; } blockquote { margin:.75em 0; border:1px dotted #ccc; border-width:1px 0; padding:5px 15px; color:#666; } .post blockquote p { margin:.5em 0; } /* Comments ----------------------------------------------- */ #comments { margin:-25px 13px 0; border:1px dotted #ccc; border-width:0 1px 1px; padding:20px 0 15px 0; } #comments h4 { margin:0 0 10px; padding:0 14px 2px 29px; border-bottom:1px dotted #ccc; font-size:120%; line-height:1.4em; color:#333; } #comments-block { margin:0 15px 0 9px; } .comment-data { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_comment.gif") no-repeat 2px .3em; margin:.5em 0; padding:0 0 0 20px; color:#666; } .comment-poster { font-weight:bold; } .comment-body { margin:0 0 1.25em; padding:0 0 0 20px; } .comment-body p { margin:0 0 .5em; } .comment-timestamp { margin:0 0 .5em; padding:0 0 .75em 20px; color:#666; } .comment-timestamp a:link { color:#666; } .deleted-comment { font-style:italic; color:gray; } .paging-control-container { float: right; margin: 0px 6px 0px 0px; font-size: 80%; } .unneeded-paging-control { visibility: hidden; } /* Profile ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { #profile-container { background:#cdc url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_prof_bot.gif") no-repeat left bottom; margin:0 0 15px; padding:0 0 10px; color:#345; } #profile-container h2 { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_prof_top.gif") no-repeat left top; padding:10px 15px .2em; margin:0; border-width:0; font-size:115%; line-height:1.5em; color:#234; } } @media handheld { #profile-container { background:#cdc; } #profile-container h2 { background:none; } } .profile-datablock { margin:0 15px .5em; border-top:1px dotted #aba; padding-top:8px; } .profile-img {display:inline;} .profile-img img { float:left; margin:0 10px 5px 0; border:4px solid #fff; } .profile-data strong { display:block; } #profile-container p { margin:0 15px .5em; } #profile-container .profile-textblock { clear:left; } #profile-container a { color:#258; } .profile-link a { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_profile.gif") no-repeat 0 .1em; padding-left:15px; font-weight:bold; } ul.profile-datablock { list-style-type:none; } /* Sidebar Boxes ----------------------------------------------- */ @media all { .box { background:#fff url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_side_top.gif") no-repeat left top; margin:0 0 15px; padding:10px 0 0; color:#666; } .box2 { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_side_bot.gif") no-repeat left bottom; padding:0 13px 8px; } } @media handheld { .box { background:#fff; } .box2 { background:none; } } .sidebar-title { margin:0; padding:0 0 .2em; border-bottom:1px dotted #9b9; font-size:115%; line-height:1.5em; color:#333; } .box ul { margin:.5em 0 1.25em; padding:0 0px; list-style:none; } .box ul li { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/icon_arrow_sm.gif") no-repeat 2px .25em; margin:0; padding:0 0 3px 16px; margin-bottom:3px; border-bottom:1px dotted #eee; line-height:1.4em; } .box p { margin:0 0 .6em; } /* Footer ----------------------------------------------- */ #footer { clear:both; margin:0; padding:15px 0 0; } @media all { #footer div { background:#456 url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_cap_top.gif") no-repeat left top; padding:8px 0 0; color:#fff; } #footer div div { background:url("https://resources.blogblog.com/blogblog/data/rounders/corners_cap_bot.gif") no-repeat left bottom; padding:0 15px 8px; } } @media handheld { #footer div { background:#456; } #footer div div { background:none; } } #footer hr {display:none;} #footer p {margin:0;} #footer a {color:#fff;} /* Feeds ----------------------------------------------- */ #blogfeeds { } #postfeeds { padding:0 15px 0; }

Monday 12 January 2015

The Secretary Blouse: measurement system

I do not like standard clothing sizes. The main reason for this is that no-one has a standard body. Society makes us uncomfortably aware of this problem. One thing I like about making your own clothes is this: I always feel that when a piece of clothing I've made doesn't fit, it's the fault of the clothing, not of the body it was made for. If a ready to wear item doesn't fit, somehow it tells us that it's the fault of our body since it's not normal/thin/long/curvy/... enough.

I also know that women tend to get attached to their 'size' and tend to believe that their size will fit them, even when switching designers or from ready made to homemade clothing.  This is not the case. All brands use a slightly different measurements system, not to mention the mess when you take into account the different systems for the different countries.

When making your own clothes it's really important to get the fit right. To customise your pattern to fit your unique body. That's why I decided not to use any regular clothing sizes. You will have to measure yourself to know witch size you are. And Yes, I have deliberately not skipped all uneven numbers, so your size will appear to be smaller than usual. Because I know how hard a lot of you will find it if you have to use a bigger size. Please believe me that the result will look better on you if you use the size your body actually has an not the size you want your body to have.

In the following table you will find the final measurements of this pattern. All measurements are given in centimetres. If your fabric is stretchy enough (10cm of it should stretch as far as 14cm) and your measurements of the bust and waist are not more than 1 size apart (you are for example either size 5 for bust and waist or you are a size 6/4 in one and a 5 in the other) you can execute this pattern as is. If your bust is more than 1 size larger than your waist (congrats by the way) I recommend that you still only scale down one size at the waist to prevent issues when putting the clothing on. You could also add a zipper in the side.


1 2 3 4 5 678910
Bust 78,4  82,4 86,5 90,5 94,7 98,8 102,9 107 111,1 115,2
Waist 56,8 60,8 64,8 68,8 72,8 76,8 80,8 84,8 88,8 92,8

If you've found your measurements download one of the following files. You will also need about 1,5m of stretch fabric for all sizes and a piece of rather stiff interfacing.

Sizes 1-5
Sizes 4-7
Sizes 6-10

When your measurements are between sizes you can follow a tutorial on how to adjust the pattern to your own measurements here (under construction). 

Labels: , , , , ,

0 Comments:

Post a Comment

Subscribe to Post Comments [Atom]

<< Home